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How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024] 4 месяца назад


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How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024]

Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) ▶ https://frictitiousclimbing.com/colle... Thanks to ​⁠@AnnaHazelnutt for joining us!! ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store 👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: [email protected] 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS: 🧗20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount (https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...) OR free shipping on any product with code "hoopers" 🤚10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10" 📱 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil... 💪 $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5 🍕 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (diet tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": https://macrofactorapp.com/ 👟 REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🧗 The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ 🧗 Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental! 🙋‍♂️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- https://bit.ly/3WVDWaY OUR SERVICES: ⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s... 🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): [email protected] or https://testpiececlimbing.com/schedul... 🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email [email protected] WHO ARE WE? Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below! 🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS 1: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Exercise Metabolism: Fuels for the Fire. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2018;8(8):a029744. Published 2018 Aug 1. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a029744 2: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise [published correction appears in Nat Metab. 2020 Sep 10;:]. Nat Metab. 2020;2(9):817-828. doi:10.1038/s42255-020-0251-4 3: Baker JS, McCormick MC, Robergs RA. Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. J Nutr Metab. 2010;2010:905612. doi:10.1155/2010/905612 4: Ament W, Verkerke GJ. Exercise and fatigue. Sports Med. 2009;39(5):389-422. doi:10.2165/00007256-200939050-00005 ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro and what to expect // SECTION 1: Why? // 01:21 Why boulderers should care 02:36 Why not just train strength instead? // SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options // 03:16 Overview of Training Options 04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous ("Circuiting") 05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons 05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent 06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent? 07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall? 07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview 08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended) 08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent ("Repeaters") 09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete? 11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent 12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board? 12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview 13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent 14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead? 15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets? 15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol // SECTION 3: Programming recommendations // 16:45 So... which method should I choose? 17:40 Why no talk of energy systems? 19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general? 20:10 How intense should endurance sets be? 21:00 How many endurance sets per training session? 21:47 How much rest should I take? 23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training? 23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance? // SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks // 24:42 Pick the right climbs 25:09 Head to the overhang 25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake 25:53 Key to long-term progress... 📝 SHOW NOTES Episode 143 https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h... ⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program. 🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS vecteezy.com #trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

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